With autumn-like temperatures taking over the summer here in Montréal, it’s quite an ideal time to head over to the Camellia Sinensis Tea House on Emery Street. On this grey, windy and chilly Sunday afternoon, I thus make my way to the Latin Quarter to enjoy warm tea and a cosy ambiance!
I sit at a table with a book when a smiling woman brings me the menu along with a small cup of Darjeeling Thurbo 1st flush. It is customary to be served some tea for tasting upon arrival. The black Darjeeling is delightfully silky. I am tempted to order a full pot but I’ve been wanting to try a Japanese Matcha for a while now.
The simple act of ordering tea is already enjoyable: the guest is to ring a small bell to notify the waiters that he or she is ready to order. It’s a welcomed touch of old-world charm. I settle for the Matcha Sendo and pay attention to my surroundings as I wait for the drink.
The mood is typically calm. On my right, a couple sit by the large window, talking softly between moments of silence. On my left, two apparent friends lay back in their chairs as they sip slowly on their cups while looking rather happy to be in each other’s company.
There’s something about such places that inspire people to connect intimately, whisper secrets or share a heartfelt smile. The enjoyment is just as great when unaccompanied: tea lends itself wonderfully well to reading, writing or simply musing over things.
As chilled music plays at low volume, what pleasure it is for the ears that there are no cellphone ringtones to be heard and no one talking to people that aren’t here. Cellphones and laptops are effectively banned from this place. In the same line of thought, should the talking get too loud, a gong would be played to invite guests to lower their voices.
My focus shifts from sound to sight: the visual aesthetics seem influenced by Japanese modernism and minimalism without ever being cold or stiff. It is details like this that make Camellia Sinensis a pleasure not only for the taste but for the other senses as well.
The Camellia Sinensis tea house has seen the light of day in the late 90s and has since become an institution for tea lovers in the city. The owners themselves travel to China, India, Japan, Sri Lanka and Taiwan each year to select first-hand fine teas that will be offered at the tea houses (there is also one in Québec City) and the boutiques.
As such, the menu is comprised of a rich assortment of white, green, black, wulong and pu er teas. In addition to the permanent selection, seasonal offerings make new discoveries possible year-long.
Even though teas are just as intricate as wines in terms of flavours and nuances, it is not necessary to be a connoisseur to enjoy them. Indeed, putting words on an experience is of secondary importance and it is all part of the pleasure to come across a taste one had not known before.
Camellia Sinensis is more than a tea house, actually. The adjacent boutique and the other one at the Marché Jean-Talon offer a large selection of truly high quality importations (including accessories). I’ve found the staff there to be both friendly and competent.
The team regularly offers a series of workshops on the various types of teas, their origins and a myriad of other details ranging from health benefits to preparation. They are open to all (through registration) though usually given in French only. Also of interest, weekly and yearly tasting events are great to compare different teas and initiate or sharpen your taste buds to the many nuances found from one cup to another.
After reading my book for some minutes, the green matcha arrives at my table. As it turns out, I am surprised with the cup that is brought to me. I didn’t realize there would be such a small amount of tea involved.
From the first sip it is clear this is a potent mixture. Quickly, my brain is stimulated by the tea’s content. Matcha could be to tea what espresso is to coffee – only it is the head that seem roused rather than the heart.
The Matcha Sendo’s taste is chocolaty, slightly marine and somewhat bitter; its color, an appealing jade. As I near the bottom of the cup, the intensity of the potion increases and my neurones are ready to perform wonders.
Technically speaking, matcha is a type of shade-grown green tea which has been milled into a fine powder. It has been traditionally used for the elaborate rituals of the chanoyu tea ceremony in Japan. It is prepared by emulsifying the tea powder in warm water before being whipped with a chasen (bamboo whisk) to produce an even mixture with a foamy top.
I’m glad I tried the matcha but I miss the amount of time usually involved in drinking a pot as well as the repeated effect of having the smooth liquid occupy my mouth and go down my throat, warming me as it does so.
If my mind was not already so alert from the green potion I’ve just had (which will last for hours), I might as well go for that Darjeeling Thurbo – but that will be a perfect excuse to come back again.
How to get there: 351, Emery Street. Get off at Berri-Uqam subway station. It’s a less than five minute walk from there as you go North on St-Denis street and turn left on the tiny Emery street.
When to go: The tea house and the boutique are open year long. They make an excellent ice tea during the summer.
For more information: www.camellia-sinensis.com
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